Wine Armada Captures Chicago

On our first mission outside of St. Louis, the Wine Armada sails north to the Windy City. Our primary assignment is nothing less than sampling the best of what they have to offer at two downtown tapas bars. Once that has been accomplished, our sites are set on invading a renowned wine shop for capturing some rare offerings, not found in the Gateway City.

The first strike of the Armada took place at 1492 Tapas Bar, 42 E. Superior Street. The surroundings were definitively “old school” with classic decor and Spanish guitar music filling the shotgun layout. The menu was also steeped in tradition as were the wine selections. We began with a 2006 Legado del Conde Albariño that was a delicious example of how a good Albariño can age to become a fuller bodied, golden white, with nuances of mandarin orange, minerals and citrus rind. This paired seamlessly with tangy Croquetas de Queso (goat cheese croquettes).

We moved on to a 2008 Arévalo Casamaro Verdejo from Rueda. This proved to be a lip-smacking mouthful of red grapefruit, lemon oil with a creamy body that lingered on a long finish with white peach flavors. It was more than up to the task of harmonious synchronization with it’s partner, a steaming plate of one of the house specialties, Pulpo 1492 (grilled squid).

A 2006 Vina Mayor Tinto Roble from Ribera del Duero was the final assault. Warm flavors of black cherry and red plum, led to cedar overtones on the perfectly acidic finish. It was an excellent wine, but proved to be a bit too high in alcohol to douse the heat brought on by an overly-spicy plate of Spanish sausages.

We continued our culinary conquest the following evening at Emelio’s Tapas Restaurant, 215 E. Ohio St. A wine from the owner’s hometown of Granda was suggested and the deal was done when it was revealed “white tempranillo” was the varietal. Upon further research, we've discovered Vijiriega is the main grape in this 2006 Veleta Vijiriega, and the rare white tempranillo returns to “Moby Dick” status. It still made for an extremely interesting, and complex, glass of white peaches, minerals and spices that was a welcome departure from the predictable “citrus rut” so many white wines fall into. The outstanding creamy garlic, earthiness of the Canelon Frio de Atun (tuna cannelloni) made for a sensational start to the meal.

Albondigas de Cordero (lamb meatballs) were singing the siren’s song and our adventurous spirit led to us to pair this with a wine from Zargoza, a regional rarity. The 2006 Castillo de Fuendejalon Crianza was a pleasant blend of ripe, dark fruit and spice on an easy-drinking, medium frame. It proved just right with the melt-in-your-mouth meatballs, in herbed tomato sauce and almond slivers.

Binny’s Beverage Depot was the final target and our prayers were answered when the doors opened to a virtual shrine of wine. Zeroing on the Spanish row of bottles turned up a few gems that ended up in the cargo hold. Gessami Gramona Vendimia 2008, a Penedes still white wine, that is not the more common sparkling Cava, led the charge. 2007 Salia de Finca Sandoval from the hard-to-find Manchuela region followed. A 2007 Camins de Priorat from famed wine maker Alvaro Palacios was a “must have.” But the crowning jewel was an Apostoles Palo Cortado sherry that saw 30 years of oak aging, and quick entry into the ship’s bay that rapidly returned to the home base in St. Louis.